Before you apply WearMax coatings
Please read all instructions start to finish before you start
So you understand the process!
Mistakes may cost you more than what you charged for the job!
Do not take short cuts!
These recommendations hold true for anyone’s products.
We recommend that you replace air filters on furnaces with the finest filters you can find to stop foreign particles and hair from floating around and getting in the coatings.
Also, if there is sunlight on the area, you may want to cover the windows and doors with black plastic on the outside or inside.
Use footie’s on your shoes when walking on the floor.
Turn off heated floors five days in advance to bring them down to room temperatures.
To stop air circulation that will increase drying time, Cover air vents or turn off AC, fans or heat until you have finished the application and the coating has skinned over after 20 -45 minutes or so. That way you can tack off for the next coat if you see foreign particles.
Every condition you work in will be different. So keep a log book of the conditions and what you had to do to achieve good results. This gives you something to go back to for ideas on what may need to be done the next time.
Remember you are the professional and you need to do professional work.
Applying the Product
Check the moisture content of the wood in five or six places across the area and write those measurements down so you can test the same areas before you apply the next coat. Each coat has to have the previous coat dried to within 1% of its original starting point before you start the next coat.
Why do we want you to wait until it is within 1%
If it is not within the 1% you are taking a chance on reactivating the coat under the one you have applied. If this happens, you are not adding another coat; you are just reactivating the previous coat and thickening the two together. It will make it easier to rip or scratch which ever the case may be.
Also combining the two coats makes a completely different chemical. This is true with every coat anyone makes. So you will be defeating the purpose of adding more coats to make the product more resistant to wear, chemicals and stains.
Test the moisture level of the air before during and after the process. Remember high humidity will slow the process because this is a water based product.
Use only water for cleanup. Do not use soaps of any sort on tools or applicators. If the soaps get on the applicators, throw them away. This contamination with cause failure in the coatings if used.
Step One: First Coat (Primer) or (Sealer)
Remember you need two coats of primer for a newly installed floor. This should take care of any side bonding issues that would ordinarily cause panelization of the boards and larger gaps instead of small ones between each board from shrinkage.
Start by rolling the jug of Universal Primer or Universal Sealer (High Build Sealer and Advance Ceramic Primer could be used also) back and forth to agitate the liquid inside to get it to mix and disperse evenly again. Our products need to be mixed before each pour to maintain a good result. Using a strainer for paint, strain the contents into another container to mix with a stick or mixer. (We strain all coatings to make sure there are no coagulations's or lump contaminants when pouring.
Do not use a mixer that is painted!
The paint particles may fall of the mixer and suspend in the primer this could leave them on the floor when you apply the primer.
(The reason you need to mix this product is the same as all of our products). We blend our products together at high speeds and sheering power. Our products do not want to blend under normal circumstances and they begin to separate while sitting.
So, before you pour the products on the floor you need to mix them with a stick before each pour. Use a separate pouring container to pour the primer on the floor. Something with a handle and a lip on it for pouring would be best. A two quart container for smaller jobs and a one gallon container for larger jobs. Keep a stir stick in the container to stir before each pour. Yes, we understand it is more work but the benefits are far superior to other products on the market today.
Use the proper tools for the job. A fibrous T-bar sleeve with a ¼” nap 18" width (Duratool or Padco are the preferred tools) and a Wooster ¼” nap mohair roller 18” long are the applicators recommended.
Start this application by pouring a 4 to 6" swath of Advanced Ceramic Primer or High build Sealer across the floor. Get your T-bar sleeve impregnated with the primer or sealer so you don't leave dry spots. Snow plow the primer on, back and forth across the floor, leave a wet edge when you stop t-barring, When you straighten out the swirls on the ends ring out a little of the coating from the T-Bar on the floor close to your stopping point. You can do this by putting the sleeve on the floor applying a downward pressure and rolling it towards you to squeeze a little out of the sleeve. This will stop any dripping off your T-Bar sleeve when you swipe the ends.
Then roll that same area before pouring for the next T-Bar application. When rolling the floor you need to make sure you run the roller back and forth a couple of times before pushing away from you and lifting off the roller a little past where the last roll was to not leave a stop mark in the coating.
Make sure you do not leave dry spots. You may want to use a 4 or 6" roller or a pad to cut in around walls and doorways for the edging. Make another pour right away and continue the process.
Do not stop applying until you are done or have gotten to a taped off stopping point if the area is too big. Try not to make pours more than thirty feet wide at one time if possible.
This product can dry very fast at times, depending on how warm it is, how dry it is, how much sun is beating down on it and how much air movement there is.
If you have to go over the thirty feet in width use more than two people, stagger your starts and have all of your products mixed well before you start.
Wait until this coat is dried to within 1% of the moisture level the floor originally started. Checking the humidity of the air and keeping a log book. Track the time it takes to dry each time and this will give you a better idea of how much time it will take for you to finish the next job. Keep the log book with you so you can determine how long each job should take.
If you are using Advanced Ceramic Primers you need another coat. Perform the previous process again without sanding in-between coats. When second coat of Primer or first coat of High Build Sealer is dried to within 1%, you may abrade floor with a maroon or red pad to remove grain raise and smooth the surface.
Do not forget to vacuum and tack off the area after abrading to remove all foreign particles.
Second Coat (Armor)
Open container, (using a mixer for paint, on a drill), start to mix the ceramic so all of the ceramic is suspended in the liquid and nothing is lying on the bottom of the bucket.
This process may take a few minutes so start it as soon as you get done with the application of the primer if you plan to finish the same day.
Next, strain the Armor into a pitcher or container that you can pour it onto the floor with. This will make sure there are no lumps when you pour it on the floor for application.
Use the same snow plow procedure to apply the armor as you did the advanced Ceramic Primer or High Build Sealer, mixing before each pour.
The ceramic may dry faster than the primer. The reason is that the particles of ceramic protrude through the surface and cause it to have more surface area with millions of particles in same area to dry faster.
When working large jobs have someone mixes this product ahead of time, so you don't have to stop and leave dry spots on the floor. Dry spots will be seen and everyone will see where you stopped and started again. After completing this pour and the armor is dry enough to walk on you may want to check to make sure you have all of the area covered with the ceramic armor coat. You can touch up small areas that may have been missed by using a 4" wide short nap roller with a small amount of armor on it and feather out that area to blend it in with the rest of the armor.
Wait until this coat is dried to within 1% of the moisture level the floor originally started at which should have been 0. Track the time it takes to dry each time and this will give you a better idea of how much time it will take for you to finish the next job. Keep the log book with you so you can determine how log each job should take.
Do not wait more than Six Hours to apply the Shield coat.
Third Coat (Shield)
Add Catalyst to the shield and follow them same mixing instructions and application procedure as Primer; mix the shield so all of the liquid in the Jug is blended. Make sure you strain the coating to get lumps out before you pour.
Use the same snow plow procedure to apply the shield as you did the primer and ceramic, mixing before each pour.
The ceramic coat will protrude through the shield and may cause the shield to also dry faster than the primer. The millions of particles give this coat more surface area in the same area to dry faster.
When working large jobs have someone mixes this product ahead of time so you don't have to stop to mix and leave dry spots on the floor. Dry spots will be seen and everyone will see where you stopped and started again.
After completing this pour and the shield is dry enough to walk on you may want to check to make sure you have all of the area covered with the shield coat. You can touch up small areas that may have been missed by using a 4" wide short nap roller with a small amount of shield on it and feather out that area to blend it in with the rest of the shield. Wait until this coat is dried to within 1% of the moisture level the floor. Track the time it takes to dry each time and this will give you a better idea of how much time it will take for you to finish the next job. Keep the log book with you so you can determine how long each job should take.
Foot traffic is acceptable after the shield is dried to within 1% this product will cure 100% within 48 hours.